I was moved by this blog topic at Bad Lyme Attitude dot com, which is at this link: http://badlymeattitude.com/2015/05/10/mothers-day-in-lymelan... This is the 'about' who wrote this: Alias name: Beaux Reliosis "I am a 19-year survivor of Lyme disease, or, more accurately, relapsing fever borreliosis. For 18 years I accepted it and lived with it, until my daughter was diagnosed with congenital Lyme. In the past year I have transformed from complacent, timid and uninformed, to activist research junkie with a mission. My mission is to get the Lyme criminals prosecuted so the millions suffering can be properly diagnosed and treated. I will not stop until that happens." And here's the link for the topic that I'm going to put below so you can see the reason I included it here AND I ENCOURAGE YOU to go on the link and find the website and look at all else there. It's really a great job she's doing, focused on what this pod of activists believe is the reason for complex, chronic symptoms. Naturally, that's similar and dovetailing with what you'll find from what Steve Beddingfield and that pod of people believe. Lumigrate, naturally, teaches that "I'm leaving it all up to YOU" to 1) become aware, then educated, 2) decide what your opinion is and if and how you're going to take action, then 3) be active ... or not.

Mothers’ Day in Lymeland

Having been an occupational therapist working with people like this woman, since literally patient number one at my internships at the Denver, VA, who was drugged and still 'disinhibited' (on Haldol), which was after my mother died at the age of 62 of a stroke (a major blood vessel in her brain ruptured, she was spared what this activist's mother went through, but it was traumatic to the family in it's own way --- home alone for a week due to my father traveling to see his mother in Florida, calling when my mother was not at the airport. She'd called me Wednesday night, it turns out she died on Thursday afternoon, and how sad was it that she didn't have anyone call her to realize she was dead?  

Particularly my father. They were not close, and they were also very cautious about spending money unnecessarily, and in those days (1987) it was long distance.  My father was tormented by his mother, she was not well ever, mentally, and by that point was in her 90s, with dementia, low vision/blind, and her 'behaviors', and he had life-long health problems. So did I.  

Do you see the similarities? How many families suffer? Most, and most are not aware it's not 'right'.   I hope this is making people more aware, more education, helping them formulate their action plans and take action in various ways.  Thank you to all activists, this one top of the list today.  Again, the website is DEFINITELY worth the price of admission (meaning your time and energy to go, it's free, money-wise). 

I'm not giving up either.  You?

Live and learn. Learn and live better! ~ Mardy

 "I could look at pictures of dogs all day", my dad would say once in the last decade of his life. 

Living to almost 20, I was to learn, Scooter the Wonder Dog, above (and also below), taught me a lot about dogs.  Every dog I've known has added to that "fund of knowledge", and I was basically raised with puppies and dogs as my parents started a commercial kennel before I was born. Today I am enjoying taking the concepts presented in this thread and applying them to dog care. And so the fund grows more. And it seemed fitting to present information on Father's Day for those guys out there who might tune in because this is about DOGS.  And naturally, others, as well.  I simply want people to get this information and start operating on it if it feels right to them to do so.  

Below: A picture provided November 15, 2015 by Steve Beddingfield, which I'm editing in --- found in a sample of 'puppy puke'. 60X magnification. 

This summer, the mainstream has made us aware of 'mold'; this blog topic, started on Mother's Day, includes that information, linked to above, and builds upon it, but in a different way.  By fall, editing this in mid November, there was much more coming out that were 'dots' to connect with this information, and the topic I created about a month ago about SIBO I utilized the dog --- it's footprints in 'The Stuff' in the ruts in the desert after the water had disappeared, and then showing the ruts when they have the water and Stuff in them, which it also had gotten into when hot and thirsty one day.  

Reducing the exposures is important, but then being able to see where all those exposures come from, and putting what we have gassing up our bodies being similar to what's gassing up the air we breathe and putting those pieces together was my aim with the SIBO topic.  The link to the SIBO / Small Intestine Bacteria Overgrowth topic which 'ties that all together' and should help with learning about THE Stuff is http://www.lumigrate.com/forum/sibo-small-intestine-bacteria-overgrowth-big-deal-chronic-conditions-and-wellness-level

People often will take more care of their dog than self, intially.  Sometimes when you make a change or do something treatment-wise with a dog (or other animal) and take out the psychological factor, you can see that 'this is really working'.  

I remember how much a dog convinced me about acupuncture in decades past.  The dog's human guardian / "owner" cared enough about her dog to take it to a Chinese veterinarian, and the dog responded incredibly to treatment. I'd understood the concepts, believed in it but had not seen benefit from the acupuncture I had gone to.  I knew it was valid, I'd just not seen the evidence. Until I saw the dog not able to walk one week and the next go flying into the back of my truck, clearly thinking it would go on an adventure. That was twenty years ago, before Scooter came along. Her owner / guardian couldn't be convinced to try such things with her, but we did get a topical potion that was outside the box of conventional medicine which reversed her hearing problem. 

Scoots, as we called her, was an adorable dog that had been kept at home, mostly inside and in the yard, groomed regularly and never taken anywhere else. Was she happier when I came along and got her out and about? Did she live longer because of it, or not as long? Once, I thought she was having anxiety and chewing on her feet, but it turned out we'd moved to western Colorado where 'cheat grass' would get in her paws and was causing infection. That's when I figured it was best to endure the learning curve and the change of habits to put booties on the dog, and pay for boots at the recreation store, find the right size, return the ones that didn't work.  "It's always somethin'" has gotten to be a more commonly uttered expression with me.  

The veterinarian had just had a dog die of an abscess a dog had gotten around it's rectum before the owner brought it in, too late for intervention.  So what I was doing -- taking her to the desert and running her, was actually the problem.  Now we have more information about the desert and what's in it that is contributing to 'our problems'.  Here's the link. 

www.PostIndependent.com/news/15634135-113/tred-cautiously-in-the-fragile-living-desert

and a link to an article demonstrating what caused elk to die in New Mexico, having to do with bacteria as well: 

www.livescience.com/41022-mysterious-elk-deaths-explained.html

There was recently a similar story in another part of the world, with a majority of a herd of preciously regarded animals that suddenly died. This was at the same time as stories in the mainstream were focusing on the massive cyanobacteria / algae issue on the west coast of the United States (and Canada, and Mexico). Google 'dogs dying, cyanobacteria' and add in locations to make it more specific to where you live, or people you'd want to alert. This is a current event, and massively important, in my opinion. 

Here are some basic ideas, for starters: 

Keep pets indoors for a longer life --  other than a couple of 30 minute walks outdoors every day. Keep the animals out of irrigated areas, lakes, ponds, streams and the like.  Keep them out of areas where decorative ponds have been bailed out and the pond replaced with clean water, as now the toxins are on the ground. Learn what's in the algae, learn what's in the water, learn about giant sulphur bacteria, horizontal gene transfer, symbiots, and cloning. That will help people reason through how to hand their dogs, cats, kids, selves, foods, drinks, cleaning, laundry, yard work, etc. 

Give them safe, pure water.  A simple water filter or similar takes out the larger particles and minerals, and greatly improves the water BUT does NOT take out the things that we're most concerned about today WHEN EDUCATED about what's in the water. Same as for humans. And you don't want to ozonate water that has minerals in it, that'll oxidize minerals.  So ozonating water after minerals are removed by whatever means will yield a safer water for the dog to drink. Or be bathed in. Or to have used with it's food. Minerals in the foods consumed is considered to be sufficient for most except the very most frail beings, per the experts I have covered in information at Lumigrate about water. 

Most will agree: use reverse osmosis / RO water (or distilled), and ozonate that so it's safe, pure water. There are people who are fans of distilled; I did the work on Lumigrate to sort through that, here and there, over three years time.

The additional oxygen will only stay in ozonated, high oxygen water a short time, so let it sit and the dog will be getting pure water within half an hour. (Humans can rinse their mouths and gargle with the high ozone water and it kills bacteria, etc.  A dog could drink a small amount of high oxygen water and potentially clean up their mouth's 'biosphere'; people gargle with it, swish it around, and drink quantities they have experimented with starting with a very small amount and which is increasingly with more ozone.  

Learn about these things, talk to others, decide what you think is right for your animal(s) (and children, etc.).  Ideally, have a whole house RO system. Bathe your selves and your pets in it. And then revitalize the water.  (See much about water at our topics on Lumigrate). Here's the link to the topic about ozone: www.lumigrate.com/forum/ozone ... and good news for those who like toys, which boys like toys, as the saying goes. Ozonators are interesting toys for the home / office, etc. 

Purchase food from a reputable, knowledgeable source. Consider going organic all the way. Perhaps go to raw food (which often is frozen), and then from there DIY, make your own. Do your homework on how long dogs can live when given proper nutrition (into their 20s!).  My Healthy Animals dot com is the website of the homeopathic / holistic veterinary expert and educator Christina Chambreau, who I've used personally in 2013 with my baffling cat (which I came to figure had something that would equate to autism in humans, but later, after she was euthanized because I couldn't figure it out even with the resources I was turning to, back at that time).  This is the link to her website's home page: christinachambreau.com/

I called to tell Dr Chambreau what I'd been told by the 'local' holistic veterinarian who did have experience with the condition, thankfully. She was very accessible, interested, and I will presume will continue to help advance the knowledge of those who focus on animal wellness from a holistic standpoint going forward. 

The increase in special needs pets today goes hand in hand with the childrens' trends, so use your 'stone' to get the birds in your home -- treat the whole system.  And much tracks to the foods and diet; I want to provide the link to her website's coverage of information on this aspect, specifically.  This is a 2014 nutrition panel which is on a drop down on the tabs at her website: christinachambreau.com/learn-more/hunt-valley-videos, and you'll see the video of her presentation at the top with this verbage:

A panel of leaders in holistic health for animals and people spoke on feeding fresh foods for animals. Especially valuable are the slides in Kendell Reichart’s talk showing the changes seen in red blood cells for raw fed dogs versus kibble fed.

---

You'll see four videos, the first says "Christina Chambreau".

Here's an overview of what she presents if you watch the video:

Nutrition whether for people or for animals. What's best, fresh or processed? Fresh. 

What's the next step? Best to get the ingredients at a big store or at a local farm? Local farm.  

Does that really make a difference? (everyone agrees, they think so)

How many of you are still feeding processed canned or dry and why?

We need to learn how to do raw.

Messiness and bones all over the place with big dogs.

A specific diet from a 'prescription food' made for a specific problem that has helped symptoms, is why one person is still feeding a prepared, processed product. 

Now, Dr C points out/asks: if you had allergies, would it be better for you to be eating things made fresh from things you purchase locally or a processed, prepared diet that was commercially made. 

A lot of people don't feed raw because the veterinarian dissuades them. So Dr C gives her background as a DVM, if someone needs a vet "telling them what to do".  However, she continued, those people out there telling you what to do can often know more than she does. What did they learn in veterinary school about nutrition? One class, one credit. 

In college they went to a pet food company, back in the late 1970s (as she became a veterinarian in 1980). And it was sponsored/ taught basically by a pet food company. They were dogs living in cages, they were being bred to do well on that food. She never thought about that though, at the time -- it just seemed good that the food was doing well for dogs. 

Reasons not to use raw were asked. Answers included Convenience. Portion size. How to know all the organic and what's fed to animals for meat.  So going grain-free kibble was what one in the audience was doing. Do you know where that food is coming from? If you're concerned about what ingredients to get, be more concerned when it comes from a bag or can.  The honesty of the company for what is in the bag compared to reality.  And then the AFCO rules... beef dinner can mean 5% beef. Beef flavor can have no beef. 

One woman who tried feeding raw gave her dog chicken and the dog looked at her. Plus aren't there supposed to be other vitamins with it.  Another person said price, because with four beagles it would be a large quantity.  Also nutrients and what they need. 

We've only been feeding processed food about a century. Until right after WW2, most were not fed processed even though it was available.  When we had TV dinners for us, there as stuff left over to make something with so they came up with more popular foods.  Dr Morris was a vet who saw dogs and cats eating table scraps who by that time were not healthy. So the dogs got the tripe, the lungs, or scavenged rotten or fresh meat -- dogs can mostly eat very rotten meat and do fine. So his clinic he cooked vegetables and meat and that was the beginning of Hills pet food company. It was bought out by Colgate Palmolive and they had a different commitment to the animals. 

When she became a vet, cats were dying because people trusted the regulators in the government to be having the processed foods be correct, but there wasn't enough taurine in it, which was causing the cats to be ill.  Also, some companies just took dog food and labeled it for cats. 

Then they changed things to address the urine problems in cats and screwed that up. 

She started out with doing homeopathy but she couldn't cure a lot of animals until they got onto better food. They had to have enough nutrition in their body to really heal.  

She's been teaching since 1987, so she's talked to tens of thousands of people. She hears over and over, the goop in the corner of the eyes has disappeared, the dog quit eating plastic, the dog quit licking the photographs, the cat stopped drinking water, I don't need to give them baths all the time. 

If you buy chicken at the store, you know it's organic or not. You know it's a chicken leg at least. If you have it in a can, you don't really know what you're purchasing and if it's fresh and local you know even better.  

How do you know how much food to eat? How do you know what volume of food you should eat -- answer, my stomach is full. How do you know how much to feed your children? Answer, there is no one right answer. Feed to where they look lean and strong.

How many of you feed the amount it says on the dry food? They're trying to sell more food --- 'nobody feeds what it says on the bag'. The answer is YOU figure it out for your dog. 

Our dogs and cats are all different.

How are dogs and cats designed. They have gripping and tearing teeth. They have one big set of bone crunching teeth. Their jaws only go up and down, they do not go side to side. They are not designed for chewing. The incisors in the front are to gnaw meat off of the bone. So if you're not giving them bones with a little meat, those teeth are never exercised. 

So for a healthy jaw and healthy teeth, you need to feed pieces of meat that are big enough to sink their teeth into, whether that's heart or liver. Sometimes dogs will do enough gnawing on carrots or a big vegetable will do it.  

Notice what else is happening to my body when she demonstrates this eating movement? Her whole body is getting chiropractic-like adjustment when I eat. 

The stomach in dog and cat, like ours is, is acid, but the food sits there a long time.  Acid doesn't do much for grains and vegetables, it's for meat. 

The intestines are really short --- that's why you have to puree the vegetables for them to consume. 

In the wild what do they eat? Something with fur and skin, bones, muscle meat, organs, and ground up, predigested vegetables in the stomachs and intestines.  That's what they're designed for anatomically to eat. So that's where she comes in to make her raw food recommendations. 

How many of you have heard different opinions on how people should eat?

Does that mean that being Westin A Price and mostly meat and fermented vegetables is right for everyone, or being vegan is not the way to raise a child? No. Once you're into this fresh foods for animals camp, you're going to get the same thing, all kinds of opinions. 

Richard _____ talks about grains, and he's committed to sustainability on the planet and he's wanting us to not see us raising animals to feed our pets. But she's as committed to that but looks at it differently. If every one of you found four or five people who hunt deer, or go to a butcher shop. If you could feed your animals that, or for just the cost of butchering --- about a dollar a pound -- you'd not be eating meat intended for people.

If you go to local farms, you can get chicken feet, chicken backs, turkey necks, hearts,liver, ears, gizards -- things that most Americans don't eat.  I believe in this, however, rather than feeding a lot of grains. However,  she says again that she respects Richard __________. It's perhaps possible to feed grain and have them do well.

So there are all these opinions. You have to do what Arbor was talking about; you watch your animal and see how your dog or cat does.  Keep a journal.  She's been doing this for years.  People about 13 years ago told her to write a book. She realized what was missing in what was available already was the people DECIDING what was best for their animal.  So her book is called The Journal.  There are some introduction pages on how healthy they can be, and overview. You need to read and know the early warning signs of illness, that's important, then it talks about how to make the journal FUN and work....  

Write in pretty, FUN colors, what the animal is doing. We want to track the ill symptoms but we want to track what they're doing well. 

And then holistic alternatives, such as nutrition like is the focus of this seminar being recorded, and not vaccinating. (Please see the vaccine plan / vaccine rights topic at Lumigrate, have a plan for your pets and people.)

As part of the beginning introduction, she talks about animals that are really healthy and what we see. That's where conventional veterinarians are lacking. They tolerate a lot of illness because they don't know what to do with it.  

How many of you have dogs who have crud in the corners of their eyes? What about skin odor and they need bathing on a regular basis?  Chronically waxy ears you're having to tend to? These are early signs, it's not there's an ear or eye infection, but the underlying vibrational pattern that is running the animal is out of whack.

Each animal (and each person) is born with a certain energetic pattern, based upon the mother's health and etc. Each one is sensitive to certain things. Some animals can eat dry food their whole life and live a long life, or get vaccinated their whole life and be fine. Others are so sensitive on their first vaccine they die, or there are only certain foods they can eat.  That's why on the Internet and elsewhere you're going to get so many opinions.  

By and large, her experience of feeding fresh food since 1990 is 80% of the animals that go onto a raw food diet are significantly better. And if they had those early warning signs, they'll go away.  Cats on a raw food diet rarely if ever will drink water. That's healthy, as long as they're not on dry food. 

Then there's a master symptom list. It shows you how to look for early warning signs.

Then you write in the journal how they are doing. 

So if you're changing the diet, you write that down in the journal.

If you have a dog doing well on an elimination diet. So if it seems to be allergic to chicken, you'd start with feeding raw beef. However, about 80% of the time, once they're on a raw food diet, what was cooked and processed causing allergies/problems can be fed raw without it causing problems. Not always, but usually.

Dogs on a raw food diet eat less volume AND that means less stool to clean up.  And the stool is just white powder and it completely dissolves.  Think about that for a moment. When we're feeding processed food they have huge, stinky stools. When you're feeding fresh, appropriate foods for that individual animal, they're that small and they just melt.  So what's in the processed food is filler and they can't digest it. You may discover that the stools get worse at one point when you start feeding differently.  

She  goes to a local farm, they carry these tubes for $1.50 a pound, which is beef heart and beef scraps.  Right now she has one cat, her limit is two cats from my husband because I travel so much. Then she has a bag of chicken backs.  They're sort of free range chickens. ... he gets them at 4 weeks and then they have a few weeks they're running around loose. I'm not saying this is THE BEST, but it's what works for her and for her cat. She sits down in front of the TV ... her cat wants the pieces to be about 1-2 inches.  

She has a friend in Florida who rescues cats and she feeds once a day, and she's a vegan. She got a container out from the fridge that had thawed of chicken legs and thighs and has a friend put them in containers for the freezer with 10 as she has 10 cats.  She has a friend that puts them in the containers as she can't stand handling it.  

She gave each cat a thigh or a leg, with the skin, the bone.  Each animal has differences in what they can do .... pancrease might not be healthy in a dog whose owner in the audience said her dog can't do skin or fat ... Standard Process pancreas supplement is what she mentions maybe trying.  Dr C relates about a case with a cat that got symptoms from chicken, throwing up.

For her cat she chops things up into small pieces, then adds coarsely ground meat, then pureed liver and pureed vegetables. Cats need about 10-20% vegetables.  She purees the liver because the cat likes it better. She uses beef liver, not chicken, because it's cheaper.  ($1 versus $4 per pound). 

How easy it is, it takes three hours one afternoon about every six or eight weeks, putting it into the freezer and she's not made the improvement yet to do away with plastic and go to metal or glass, she's using plastic.  Best to thaw it in your fridge. This is how easy it is to serve breakfast, because some people think this is going to be harder. There are hunks in there that the cat actually gets to use his teeth and he's sinking his teeth into it.

If you have a dog at home, you can prepare ahead or make them part of your family's meals every night. 

Depending upon how many and how big your animals are. So at farmer's markets, just before they close, a lot of the farmers are willing to ditch the vegetables to you for feeding your animals. So then you may process the vegies that night.  It depends on how many and how big your dogs are, you might buy equipment that makes this easier.

But say you are with one dog ... you always keep your food processor sitting out. You can cut off the hard part of the broccholi that looks not good for your dinner. Eat your vegetables, put the leftovers in the food processor.  Some people say only raw and only cooked vegetables, and she says use both as some things are more bioavailable cooked and some raw. 

What about if you have olive oil or garlic in your foods that you'd give to the animals. 

There's very little you should not feed your animals.  She doesn't recommend putting extra onion in when preparing for your dog.  Say you made a tomato sauce that had onions in it .... 

You don't want to feed expensive chocolate to them, cheap chocolate is fine, avocado is fine.  Garlic is fine. There's a food called AvoDerm, it has avocado ..... you can't feed the skin or the pit, but avocado is fine. So you could put some rice in if you had some of that with your dinner.  One woman in Columbia who had a very large dog realized that  her dog needed 1 T of rice per day was needed in with the three cups of food the dog was consuming. (She had a healthy pet food store.) So if you notice the way the dog looks based on these experiments just like with yourself. 

She is of the belief of no grains, in the wild do your dogs eat animals that are eating rice? Maybe wild rice. Corn? Maybe, for a few months the mice might when the corn is ripe. They'll be eating seeds and other things. If you had some left over, it's fine to put it in IF it's not a problem. Dr Pitkaren says yes to grains. 

Another example about foods

Grapes were brought up. They were killing dogs, they thought, because grapes and strawberries are among the most pesticided foods. Then a dog died that the owners had not allegedly sprayed their grapes, but it wasn't that carefully investigated. Could a neighbor have sprayed, perhaps, for instance. So if you've been feeding grapes and raisins, stick to organic. If you've never fed them, don't do it, just 'cause she's kind of on the fence about it --- in the wild would they really eat grapes?

Most importantly, YOU need to find out what works for YOU and your dog.  If you looked at the early warning signs and didn't notice any difference when you were doing vegetables. You can get the early warning signs on her website, you don't need the journal for that.

As far as nuts go. They don't digest nuts if they're whole. They might appear to chew but they're not really able to chew a note up. The stomach acid likely doesn't digest it.  

Animals that are supposed to 'chew their food' have flat teeth. Mammals that are supposed to chew their food will have flat surfaces on their teeth, like cows, horses, people. 

If it's a treat for your dog and your dog LOVES it, then it falls in the category of 'am I going to spend money that gives my dog fun because they enjoy it that's not giving nutrition'.  It's perfectly fine -- anything can be shared as a 'treat'. But some people might not be able to afford anything but what they need for nutrition.  Dogs aren't eating a lot of grains, so you buy all these human snack treats that are all raw and nuts, 

She married into Baltimore and they eat lox and bagels with cream cheese for breakfast. But give some of that to dog as a treat UNTIL you go to the journal. The question always is what did my dog eat just before the symptoms? Is it the bagel, the cream cheese, or the lox. 

She relates that one of her main purposes in life is to be the mediator. YOU need to figure out what works for your animals. 

Question from someone with a pet with missing teeth.  You have to be appropriate to that.  Remember, they are not 'chewing'. You may need to experiment. You certainly do small chunks, better than ground but ground's an option. Do you do raw fish, like a whole fish. Yes and she said better yet, you take the fillets off for yourself and give the head, tail and backbone to the animal.  

"Don't feed cooked bones, they splinter?" How many heard this? How many have heard veterinarians say this?  She was lecturing to 200 technicians once, and asked. Only a few knew that the problems they saw was from raw. Bones CAN get stuck.  A stick can get stuck somewhere. Raw bones don't really cause problems often. What causes the problem ... the chicken leg, for instance, has all this stuff that hooks the muscles onto it.  The dried out bone with nothing hooked onto it that a dog gets is the problem.  

Dogs in the wild are not likely to eat a dried out bone unless they're starving.  It's a slightly higher risk, they don't necessarily make a problem.  After you've cooked bones for a soup, look at how flexible they are. What about choking? That can happen, in 30 years she's never had one choke and die.  She doesn't recommend you put out food and leave no matter WHAT kind of food, processed or fresh / raw. Stay around so you know nothing got stuck. 

Someone in the audience said they'd get on the floor with her dog with a leg on a bone. "It was a bonding experience".  The dog would take the meat off the bone and eat it, quickly.  Another 'frenchie' she has will eat fast, regurgitate it sometimes. 

Another in the audience talked about another person who fed raw, the dog ate fast, threw up and the owner removed the dog from the room and cleaned it up rather than just letting it eat it. 

Dr C said she has a few clients who have their dogs scavenging in the woods and their food bills are $0 now -- just keep them off the roads. 

It has to be a bite wound to get rabies .. they say it doesn't but it really does. So an animal can eat an animal that has rabies without getting rabies. 

SO: 

There are health benefits.

You'll save money. 

You won't have as many stools. 

Your dogs will live longer. 

The dogs like the food. 

You know what is in the food, so you can do an allergenic diet. You don't know what is in processed foods.

How many who are feeding raw feel it's more, less, same?  It costs her 1/4 what it would cost me to feel a high quality canned to my cat, she said because she's making it not purchasing a raw food diet. 

As you'll see with Kendall and _____ in their presentations, 

I don't know about vitamin D toxicity, but feeding a raw food diet should help the body cleanse, then if you support that with holistic modalities that should clean that up. 

Lyme -- if you have a healthy animal it won't show symptoms of Lyme. If you have a positive antibody for Lyme but it's asymptomatic, don't even worry about it. Feed a raw food diet. 

For those who haven't already been feeding raw, just from hearing her so far, how many have been converted.

Then at the end we'll have Kathleen ask. If anyone's left then ... we'll go in the lobby and talk (because they might need this room). 

A woman in the audience says: I buy almost 500# at a time, and have three freezers, one woman said. 

One very important piece, this is new 'freaking news'. A month and a half ago on their monthly homeopathy veterinary webinar, even with the free range chickens -- really truly chickens running around and eating grass not just with a door they could go out -- if they are being fed GMO grains, you develop problems in your dogs and cats.  

So now we need to up the ante. But local, free range AND..... she digresses --- there's a farm called The Contented Rooster Farm in Hartford's farmer's market, and the man says that we've gotten to expect these chickens that have big breasts ..... we've bred them in a way they can't get their nutrition naturally, they have to be fed grains .... 90% of their nutrition comes from grains, even if they're outside 24/7. So now we need to find did the beef get finished on grain or not?

What about our venison .... the farm across from her kills deer year round because they're eating on the farm, so the deer are eating GMO soybeans and corn all the time, she wants deer from the woods.  Your neighbors are spraying the grass, do you want the deer that's hanging out on your lawn?  So today, this year for her, it's about upping the ante about what we're eating and our animals are eating. 

Other seminars at this tab are :

Kendell Reichart 

Kevin Matthews 

Kathleen Lester (and summary)

---

7 Keys to Health Animals, from Christina Chambreau's website: 

christinachambreau.com/learn-more/7-keys-to-healthy-animals 

which includes the afore-mentioned early warning signs which people are encouraged .. YOU are encouraged to document in a journal using COLORFUL things about the happy, good things with the pet so it's not a journal focused on 'problems'..... from the link: 

 

EARLY WARNING SIGNS OF ILLNESS FOR DOGS AND CATS

1. Is your companion really healthy?
2. Can you tell if the treatment you selected is deeply curing?
3. Can your companion be healthier than you realize?

Most health problems are the result of an underlying energy imbalance, made worse from poor diet and vaccination.  They are rarely acute diseases (except injuries). Therefore, you may find that the problem does not clear up as you expect or it recurs.

If so, you are dealing with an underlying predisposition to illness, and these clues to underlying ill health will help you select a remedy and monitor the results.  As we cure animals of “disease”, we find that certain other “NORMAL” things go away, too.  Do not be satisfied until most of the following symptoms are gone.  In young, apparently healthy animals, these apparently “normal” problems may be the only indications to start treatment.

This is only the beginning of a list – as more animals are cured we will find new levels of health. Tracking these is easy when you use the Healthy Animal’s Journal by Dr. Christina Chambreau (www.HealthyAnimalsJournal.com)

SKIN:

Doggy smell; attracts fleas a lot; dry, oily, lack-luster coat; excessive shedding; not grooming,  ear problems – waxy, oily, itchy, recurrent mites; eye discharge, tearing, or matter in corner of eyes; raised third eyelid; spots appearing on iris; “freckles” appearing on face; whiskers falling out; fragile, thickened, distorted claws that are painful or sensitive to trim.

BEHAVIOR:

Fears(of loud noises, thunder, wind, people, animals, life); too timid; too rough or aggressive (even at play); too hard to train; barks too much and too long; suspicious nature; biting when petted too long; hysteria when restrained; clumsy; indolent; licking or sucking things or people too much; not using litter box or not covering stool.

DIGESTIVE:

Bad breath; tarter accumulation; loss of teeth; poor appetite; craving weird things (rubber bands, plastic, dirt, cat litter, paper, dogs eating dog or cat stools, rocks, sticks…);  sensitivity to milk;  thirst – a super healthy cat on non dry food will drink at most once a week; red gum line; vomiting often, even hairballs more than a few times a year; mucous on stools; tendency to diarrhea with least change of diet; obesity; anal gland problems; recurrent parasites.

MUSCULAR/SKELETAL:

Stiffness when getting up, early hip dysplasia; tires easily in hot or cold weather; can no longer jump up on counters, or go up or down steps.

TEMPERATURE:

Low grade fevers – Normal for healthy cats and dogs is 100-101.5.

AGE  &  REPRODUCTION:

Should live a long life (Shepherds 17 years, Danes 12, cats 24). should be able to  conceive easily, deliver normally, and not pass on “genetic breed” problems.

 

 

Remember, Dr C and other 'experts' might not yet have learned about the cyanobacteria / giant sulphur bacteria information that I'm weaving into Lumigrate in 2015. I really like that her presentation credits that others know more than she does about many things, and that she's continuing to 'up the ante' and progress with being more careful about things as she has to incorporate doing all this into her life, same as everyone.  At some point, everyone's going to be learning about this information is my projection, and then we can look for how these experts change their education.  Until then, do as she is saying here, which is so a duet with my foundational concept of YOU have to take charge of these things and figure things out.  I'm just trying to make it easier for YOUsers by providing examples and information. 

It is a lot, maybe too much, to think about all the water and food changes.  What about the medication aspect? Safeguard's website is set up to take people to the various products they are marketing specifically for the various animals. Here's their link: www.safe-guard.com/ and this is the link for the button/tab about canines: www.safe-guard-for-dogs.com/

You'll see: 

 

 

Safe-Guard® is safe for:

• Dogs of all breeds
• Puppies (at least 6 weeks of age)
• Pregnant females
• Older dogs

 

Safe-Guard® is the ONLY over-the-counter canine dewormer that treats ALL 4 major intestinal parasites in dogs. See How We Stack Up

AND an image of a dosing chart, which has slightly different information on it about what kind of dogs... as they include 'working dogs' on there too. I'll let you go to that resource they provide as they might be updating that and changing and I wouldn't want to have the outdated information carved in 'stone' on Lumigrate. 

www.safe-guard-for-dogs.com/images/dosage-chart-large.jpg

 

I know from being in the circles I am on Facebook that many have ordered their fenbendazole from Jeffers, and by the way, they have never talked about using this short-term treatment for 'worms' for the longer, chronic 'stuff inside our guts'.  It was my asking "Poster Gal" in late July what she'd been doing lately with it with her dogs, since I knew she originally had treated her dogs, larger dogs, one 'lame' that was now getting out to the neighbors' again and 'wandering', a new problem created by solving the physiological problems in the dog underlying the lameness. Due to cost, she switched from the Safeguard suspension with the canines to the pellets and continues to routinely use it since they will continue to get the 'stuff in them' that is causing 'our problems'. 

Let's start with the 'multi-species' product at Jeffers, which is Safeguard brand pellets. Quantities: 1 and 5 pounds. Description: 

DESCRIPTION

Safe-Guard® Multi-Species Dewormer

Broad-spectrum, pelleted dewormer for use in beef and dairy cattle, equine, swine, growing turkeys, zoo and wildlife animals. 
Contains 2.27 grams fenbendazole per lb.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE:

• Cattle - (Beef and Dairy) - For the removal and control of lung-worms, barber-pole worms, brown stomach worms, small stomach worms, hookworms, intestinal worms, bankrupt worms and nodular worms. Feeding directions for 1,100 lbs body weight: 1 lb in a one day treatment. Re treatment may be needed after 4-6 weeks. 13 day slaughter withdrawal; no milk withdrawal.
• Equine - For the removal and control of large strongyles, small strongyles, pin-worms and ascarids. Feeding directions for 1,100 lbs body weight: For strongyles and pin-worms - 1 lb in a one day treatment; For ascarids - 2 lbs Safe Guard in a one day treatment. Re-treatment may be needed after 6-8 weeks.
• Swine - (growing pigs, gilts, pregnant sows and boars) - For the removal and control of lung-worms, gastrointestinal worms, large roundworms, nodular worm, small stomach worms, whip-worms and kidney worm. Feeding directions for 200 lbs body weight: 1.92 oz daily for 3 days. No slaughter withdrawal.
• Turkeys, Zoo and Wildlife Animals See label directions or visitMarsyt.com and click on animal species icon for dose calculator.

www.jefferspet.com/products/safe-guard-multi-species-dewormer

 

Here's the suspension for horses and goats they have a link for when Searching on the Internet (please do your own Searches too). www.jefferspet.com/products/safe-guard-suspension

Safeguard paste: www.jefferspet.com/products/safe-guard-paste

They have the Panacur (different brand) paste for horses as well: www.jefferspet.com/products/panacur-paste

Remember to look at what the other ingredients are.  

Keep in mind, this is what the 'on label' not 'off label' uses are that they put on their products and website marketing. By now, most medical consumers (people) are aware of how that works of using chemicals for things that they're not officially on the market for.  

When it comes to the more progressive concepts that I think are cutting edge right now, dogs don't drink coffee, but learn and apply the concepts from the Bulletproof 'guy', who just produced the movie Moldy. Apply that to the dog (or cat, etc). I think it was 'meant to be' that Dave Asprey was on with Patrick Timpone this past Thursday at OneRadioNetwork (I transcribed it, so it's now readable at Lumigrate, too).  Here's the link to the comment topic about that: www.lumigrate.com/forum/mold-four-letter-word-and-cofactor-consider-chronic-illness-and-wellness-prevention-too#comment-2901.  

Basically, if you see someone having behavioral changes, weight gain, and other symptoms, suspect mold.  In people, he was referring to but wouldn't this extend to our pets and other animals as well? Have we heard about the animals in the wild behaving differently or observed it personally? I sure have, increasingly and recently in particular.  Could it be they're getting 'whammed' by the fungus amongus, the bacterial Trojan horse, etc. ?  

Dave Asprey, a father, said on his marketing video about Moldy that he really didn't like being away from his family when he had to travel to interview people for the movie. Think about how fortunate his children are that he took the 20 years to figure out what caused his health problems, and now the two to make Moldy, after having the foresight to create a low micotoxin coffee product with the concept of putting FAT in your coffee and then body.  Becoming a sensation, having enough money to now go into movie production such as Moldy.  

Something about the conversations I've heard make me think there's more to the story than we've been told --- and the timing of Moldy coming out just after Dr Oz did a topic and Suzane Somers' book came out about mold being the ultimate cause of her problems she popularized and sold books about in the past.  Clearly 'someone' wants us to learn about mold NOW.  But remember, to add on 'et al.' after mold.  Mold et al. is what we teach at Lumigrate, now as you see at the above topic and the subsequent links.

BRUSH / Groom the coat of the dog often, looking for any insect problems, and to be reducing the surfaces that the bacteria intermingling with other microbes can be on.  Only use quality essential oils and some diatomaceous earth for flea and tick control, I've heard from a wise woman whose brain I picked a little about pets in the home, with the family, in terms of keeping the home/family system as safe and healthy as possible in today's difficult times with all the exposures. Look into Borax for use in the home for flea control, not on the dog. (And for use in laundry, etc.)

CLEAN the area where the dog spends time.  Use blankets and towels, etc. that can be washed.  Use appropriate cleaning methods. Use carpet remnants that can be taken outside and put in the sun for the UV light. And that's just the tip of the iceberg.  Consult our laundry cleaning information at Lumigrate, it's prepared specific with the expertise of Steve et al. about bacteria, fungi, et al.  Here's the link: www.lumigrate.com/forum/cleaning-your-environment-and-doing-laundry-light-new-information-toxins-and-earths-environmen

TRAIN the dog to be disciplined on the leash so that you are more apt to keep them on the leash and out of UNSAFE WATER.  Learn what is making standing water unsafe versus safe. Decide what your plan will be for your dog if they are exposed; learn the symptoms a dog will usually have if they're in need of medical attention.  

Is it a 'dog's good life' to never get to go jump in a lake, or is it a compromise to let them go into safer waters? What about bathing them afterward to get (some of) the toxins off their coat.  What about treating the coat with fenbendazole? There are some who will say to put liquid on a damp cloth and wipe the pets off, others will say to obtain fenbendazole powder.  

Have you talked with your veterinarian about what you've learned at Lumigrate, and how does that integrate with what YOU think, and what YOU are going to do as the responsible pet guardian. What then, do you think after talking with your 'team', and contemplating. 

Consider getting booties for your dog so they don't get as much exposure through their feet. And then you can take those off at the door as a person would their shoes and you get less toxin in your home.  By putting one bootie on a back paw initially, then the other, and letting them get used tot that, then adding the two front, it is a way to ease them into accepting the newfangled things. 

Wash their booties and feet (and the rest of the dog) in ways that will reduce the toxins getting into the dog AND into the home and other family members.  Clean the bedding frequently. Many who follow Steve Beddingfield's work and protocol are treating the entire family, fur babies and humans. And recognize this is emerging information and thinking and you'll maybe not find exact information out there of what to do, you'll have to reason through things.  

There are increasing numbers of people using fenbendazole, or following the specific protocol Steve is adamant about being 'the right way'. Find what fits for YOU. But please do give it the thought of how important this is and if you're going to be committed to doing the steps to help you and your family be safer and healthier. A very experienced group member had recently told someone their dog only needed a few days of fenbendazole before their symptoms were gone; they put the appropriate amount on a piece of bread -- something the dog enjoyed eating. In a dog case I've been working in on this summer, even without the fenbendazole being added, as the owner had to ease into all this information, it was remarkable how many things changed within just the first month of our working together. I think it's really encouraging for the people, who simply take longer typically, to see this in the dogs. 

Consider whether you're going to do more exercising where you'll get less exposure to the toxins; read about cyanobacteria (and giant sulphur bacteria, though that's emerging information) in your area and think about where it's at.  

Example: If the irrigation water flows and gets pumped into a pond where it stagnates and algae (and etc.) grow, then that gets shot through sprinklers onto the grass VERSUS walking where there was no stagnant irrigation water being sprayed.  Walking on the street or sidewalks versus walking out in the desert or the woods and the wilds. Compromise. This is why it is SO IMPORTANT a person studies enough to really understand the information. This takes work, you'll have to give up something you'd rather do with your time and energy and money. Priorities. Mature priorities. 

"Notice" what you see growing on the north and west and east sides of rocks, trees, buildings, etc., or other objects. Look closely. Think in light of the information that is presented by the sources I've suggested YOU study potentially. Are we to the day when a healthier dog and human will come from exercising indoors? I've seen obese dogs walking on treadmills in water, via veterinary clinics. Have their endocrine systems been blown out by these little toxins and it's not about calories in and calories out? Etc. 

Consider treating the dog inside and out (orally and topically) with fenbendazole; consider powered fenbendazole. Consider also giving them reishi, and fenbendazole per 'the protocol' Steve Beddingfield came up with (after doing research about what's in it and the patent trail that I've presented on the topics about Steve's research, protocol, etc. Naturally, get the opinions of professionals as needed.  

I believe there's much truth in what he's coming up with, though it is obviously a work in progress and I present it as such very intentionally so YOU realize you can be on the cutting edge and what that means.

Consider treating the SOILS the way we've presented if you look at the soil topic at Lumigrate.  Really, won't the dog prefer to roll in the dirt? Make it safer dirt. That's just what makes sense to me. Dave Asprey has much to say about soils, at this thread at Lumigrate, and be sure to take a peek at the pickle photo to see the giant sulphur bacteria / cyanobacteria 'mess' someone found inside a commercially purchased pickle.  www.lumigrate.com/forum/gardening-starting-seeds-coffee-filters#comment-2887

This means smaller areas we'll need to have so we can be more diligent with our efforts.  This is a major rethinking of 'everything', which can START with thinking about 'man's best friend'.  

I got the ball rolling, what else can YOU think of?

 Scooter the Wonder Dog, whose 'father' was my beau from about the time of 9/11 (2001) to spring of 2004. Thankfully, we kept in touch enough that I got to hear the ending of her life story, and to see him off to his next chapter of his life, ever the rolling stone. 

Scooter became a certified therapy dog at the age of 14, as I was working with a rehab manager who did that certification and used dogs in the facility I was hired initially to work at.  There's more about her on the vaccine plan thread at Lumigrate, because she'd just gotten her hearing back at this time due to a veterinarian who went out of his way to research after we presented with her having gone totally deaf immediately after getting her vaccinations in the city he was moving from (to follow me with my work).  

I'd gotten a flu vaccine earlier that month and had gotten 'the clear visible reaction' I needed to 'get it' that vaccines were contributing to my ongoing health problems.  Hence I suggest everyone study about vaccines, make a plan, act upon that plan based on what YOU believe is right for YOU (or those you are an advocate / guardian for).  

This is the fifth Father's Day holiday where I don't have a father alive on Earth anymore; mine died on Labor Day 2010, about 20 years after this photo was taken of us (which was included in the modern media photo and music 'story' of his life 

We even waived the military musicians coming to play taps and present the flag, as the mortuary was able to do the flag and the musicians hired to perform the music entertainment portion of the service could play taps.  

To my surprise, Steve posted mid-week as I was working on how to present this information, a photo of a dog that is the same or similar breed to the mixed breed I am working with currently. He was letting us all know that the dog had passed. It appeared later on that the dog was with him through the roughest patch of his illness;  this is what he'd added as a comment on the morning of Father's Day: 

 

"My friend Blue taught me a lot about unconditional love, fearlessness, the struggle of life at his level, this dog was my child, my BFF, my comfort when I was sad and alone, he never deserted when I became deathly ill, he never shyed away because of my horrid condition, if anything changed with his perception of me, it was that I needed to be watched over by him.

It is my prayer that he was able to feel and just how much that I appreciated him, especially while I was alone, except for him, and suffering badly. It'smy belief that I came to this Earthly home to learn to love and to develop into a human being that is kind, compassionate and understanding of all life, to see a mere dog lead me in much of this quest, has helped me greatly with my search for an understanding of my own being. Thanks Blue for all the love and understanding that you brought into my life, you are greatly missed."

 

It turns out that one of the more interesting photographs Steve had posted recently was GSB (giant sulphur bacteria) which was growing on a sample of dog poop that was from another dog Steve's had at his place, which he said is really 'sick with this stuff we have'.  

 

©2015 Steve Beddinfield    Giant Sulphur Bacteria Sample Grown in Steve's Tiny Laboratory on Dog Poop from a Very Sick Dog (not his dog that just passed, 'the other one' he has at his place, he said.)

 

I'm pleased to see there were just over 900 reads of this blog post before I created this new comment to identify a little more in detail what some might want to have available as starter information about fenbendazole. Types of delivery systems, pellets, liquid, paste. Brands, Safeguard, Pancur. I just will give some information, there'll be more you'll find just going to the links and looking at ads that pop up or are there for similar information. Searching and doing your own work is important, but just as animals show us the way, maybe I can as well. 

www.safe-guard.com/ is a resource to get started at. Use your Search bar and let your fingers do the walkin' from here.  I'll give you some of the ways I've taken my fingers based on what comes to my mind. 

At a very specialized website such as for elephants, it didn't suprise me to see that they bring in the other more common animals 'to the picture' that can be treated with fenbendazole.  Here's the link

www.elephantcare.org/Drugs/fenbenda.htm 

and here's what is at the link:

Fenbendazole

The Elephant Formulary
© 2003-06 Susan K. Mikota DVM and Donald C. Plumb, Pharm.D.
Published by Elephant Care International - www.elephantcare.org

Elephant specific information, if available, is in blue.

Chemistry - A benzimidazole anthelmintic, fenbendazole occurs as a white, crystalline powder. It is only slightly soluble in water.

Storage/Stability/Compatibility - Fenbendazole products should be stored at room temperature.

Uses/Indications - Fenbendazole is indicated (labeled) for the removal of the following parasites in dogs: ascarids (Toxocara canis, T. leonina), Hookworms (Ancylostoma caninum, Uncinaria stenocephala), whipworms (Trichuris vulpis), and tapeworms (Taenia pisiformis). It is not effective against Dipylidium caninum. Fenbendazole has also been used clinically to treat Capillaria aerophilia:, Filaroides hirthi and Paragonimus kellicoti infections in dogs.

Fenbendazole is indicated (labeled) for the removal of the following parasites in cattle: Adult forms of: Haemonchus contortus, Ostertagia ostertagi, Trichostrongylus axei, Bunostomum phlebotomum, Nematodirus helvetianus, Cooperia spp., Trichostrongylus colubriformis, Oesophagostomum radiatum and Dictyocaulus vivaparus. It is also effective against most immature stages of the above listed parasites. Although not approved, it also has good activity against Moniezia spp., and arrested 4th stage forms of Ostertagia ostertagi.

Fenbendazole is indicated (labeled) for the removal of the following parasites in horses: large strongyles (S. edentatus, S. equinus, S. vulgaris), small strongyles (Cyathostomum spp., Cylicocylus spp., Cylicostephanus spp.,Triodontaphorus spp.) and pinworms (Oxyuris equi).

Fenbendazole is indicated (labeled) for the removal of the following parasites in swine: large roundworms (Ascaris suum), lungworms (Metastrongylus apri), nodular worms (Oesphagostomum dentatum, O. quadrispinulatum), small stomach worms (Hyostrongylus rubidus), whipworms (Trichuris suis) and kidney worms (Stephanuris dentatus; both mature and immature).

Although not approved, fenbendazole has been used in cats, sheep, goats, pet birds and llamas. See Dosage section for more information.

Fenbendazole is considered to be safe to use in pregnant bitches and is generally considered to be safe to use in pregnancy for all species.

Pharmacokinetics - Fenbendazole is only marginally absorbed after oral administration. After oral dosing in calves and horses, peak blood levels of 0.11 micrograms/ml and 0.07 micrograms/ml respectively, were measured. Absorbed fenbendazole is metabolized (and vice-versa) to the active compound, oxfendazole (sulfoxide) and the sulfone. In sheep, cattle, and pigs, 44-50% of a dose of fenbendazole is excreted unchanged in the feces, and <1% in the urine.

Contraindications/Precautions - Fenbendazole is not approved for use in lactating dairy cattle or for horses intended for food purposes.

Adverse Effects/Warnings - At usual doses, fenbendazole generally does not cause any adverse effects. Hypersensitivity reactions secondary to antigen release by dying parasites may occur; particularly at high dosages. Vomiting may infrequently occur in dogs or cats receiving fenbendazole.

Single doses (even at exaggerated doses) are not effective in dogs and cats; must treat for 3 days.

Overdosage/Toxicity - Fenbendazole is apparently well tolerated at doses up to 100X recommended. The LD50 in laboratory animals exceeds 10 grams/kg when administered PO. It is unlikely an acute overdosage would lead to clinical symptoms.

Drug Interactions - Oxfendazole or fenbendazole should not be given concurrently with the bromsalan flukicides (Dibromsalan, Tribromsalan). Abortions in cattle and death in sheep have been reported after using these compounds together.

Doses -

Horses:

For susceptible parasites:

a)   5 mg/kg PO; 10 mg/kg once daily for 5 days to treat S. vulgaris in foals. (Robinson 1987)

b)   5 mg/kg PO; 10 mg/kg for ascarids. (Roberson 1988b)

c)   For treatment of migrating large strongyles: 50 mg/kg PO for 3 consecutive days, or 10 mg/kg for 5 consecutive days. (Herd 1987)

Elephants:

For strongylosis:

a) 5 mg/kg po (Raman, et.al., 2000).

b) 2.5 mg/kg orally as a single dose (Chandrasekharan,2002);(Chandrasekharan et.al.,1995).

c) 2.0 –2.5 mg/kg orally as a single dose mixed with jaggery or rice (Chandrasekharan, 1992).

d) 5 mg/kg po in feed as a single dose (Strao et.al., 1992).

e) Chronic murshidiasis in an Asian elephant was resolved with 50 g fenbendazole repeated at 30 days (Tripathy et.al. 1991).

f) 5 mg/kg po as a single dose (Roy and Mazumdar, 1988).

g) 12 g of Panacur dissolved in 2000 ml water in 2 divided doses at a 3 -day interval (Lahkar and Das,1988).

Elephant References:
a) Raman,M., Jayathagaraj,M.G., Rajavelu,G., and John,M.C. 2000. Strongylosis in captive elephants - a report. Indian Journal of Animal Health 39:(2):85-86  Summary: Strongylosis was observed in a group of elephants (n=4) maintained in a private circus in Chennai, Tamil Nadu, India [date not given]. Examination of faecal samples showed larvae which were identified as Murshidia sp., Quilonia sp., and Decrusia sp. larvae. All elephants were treated with fenbendazole at a dose of 5 mg/kg body weight. A decline of egg count was observed after 1-2 days of treatment. Identification at the earlier stages of infection, good nutrition and hygiene, and less exertion might be the cause of absence of significant clinical signs like anaemia, dehydration and others. It is concluded that use of fenbendazole at the rate of 5 mg/kg body weight in the mega herbivores with repetition after 3 weeks, and regular deworming every 3-6 months, yield satisfactory results.

b) Chandrasekharan,K. 2002. Specific diseases of Asian elephants. Journal of Indian Veterinary Association Kerala 7:(3):31-34

b) Chandrasekharan,K., Radhakrishnan,K., Cheeran,J.V., Nair,K.N.M., and Prabhakaran,T., 1995. Review of the Incidence, Etiology and Control of Common Diseases of Asian Elephants with Special Reference to Kerala. In: Daniel,J.C. (Editor), A Week with Elephants; Proceedings of the International Seminar on Asian Elephants.Bombay Natural History Society; Oxford University Press, Bombay, India pp. 439-449

c) Chandrasekharan,K., 1992. Prevalence of infectious diseases in elephants in Kerala and their treatment. In: Silas,E.G., Nair,M.K., and Nirmalan,G. (Editors), The Asian Elephant: Ecology, Biology, Diseases, Conservation and Management (Proceedings of the National Symposium on the Asian Elephant held at the Kerala Agricultural University, Trichur, India, January 1989). Kerala Agricultural University, Trichur, India pp. 148-155

d) Rao, D.S.T., Yathiraj, S., Choudhuri, P.C., and Reddy, P.K. 1992. Treatment of helminthiosis in elephants.Indian Journal of Animal Science 62(12):1155-1156.
Ref ID: 2648 Abstract (Summary): Strongyle and paramphistome eggs were found in the faeces of 3 elephants belonging to S V Dairy Farm, Tirupati. The body weights of these elephants were calculated using the formula: weight (kg) = 12.8 (n+ng) - 4281, where g is chest girth (cm) and ng is neck girth (cm). A drug containing 25% fenbendazole was given orally at a dosage of 5 mg/kg. One elephant had diarrhoea and was also given astringent. No eggs were detected after 7 days in 2 cases and after 14 days in all 3 cases.

e) Tripathy,S.B., Acharjyo,L.N.M., and Padhi,N.K.  1991. Use of fenbendazole against murshidiasis in zoo elephant. International Seminar on Veterinary Medicine in Wild and Captive Animals, Nov. 8-10, Bangalore, India. Pages: 29  Abstract: Treatment of a chronic case of murshidiasis in a captive elephant with fenbendazole has been reported.  Large numbers (epg 4200) of Murshidia eggs were detected in the faeces. Differential count of the blood revealed lymphocytosis (63%) and neutropenia (27%).  Reduction in feed intake, oedematous swelling on dependent parts of the body, debility and reduction in body weight were recorded. Oral administration of 50 g of Panacur (25% fenbendazole) repeated after 30 days, 50 g of Minamil (mineral mixture) once daily for 30 days and 100 g of Livol (liver tonic) daily for 15 days along with 30 ml of Neurobiocin IM every third day for 5 injections brought clinical recovery and gain in body weight 2 months and 4 months after initiation of treatment respectively.  The number of Murshidia eggs reduced by 70% and 100% in per gram of faeces when examined 5 and 10 days post treatment with anthelmintic, respectively.

         f)Roy,S. and Mazumdar,B.K. 1988. Anthelmintic activity of fenbendazole (Panacur) against Murshidia murshida in zoo elephants. Indian Veterinary Journal 65:(6):531-532  
Summary:  Three Indian elephants, Elephas maximus, infected with M. murshida were treated with a single dose of fenbendazole at 5 mg/kg mixed into feed (cooked rice). Faecal samples were negative in one elephant 3 days after treatment, and in all animals 7 days after treatment. No side effects were recorded.

         g) Lahkar,B.C. and Das,M.R. 1988. A note on the successful treatment of trichostrongyle infection of elephants (Elephas maximus) with Panacur (fenbendazole). Indian Veterinary Journal 65:(6):538  Summary: Six Indian elephants, E. maximus infected with gastrointestinal nematodes (700-1400 epg faeces) were given 12 g Panacur (fenbendazole) in the form of a bolus with flour, in 2 doses 3 days part. Faecal samples from all animals were negative 3 days after the second dose. No side effects were recorded.         

Dosage Forms/Preparations/FDA Approval Status -

Veterinary-Approved Products:

Fenbendazole Granules 222 mg/gram (22.2%) in 0.18 oz & 1 g, 2 g, 4 g packets and 1 lb jars; Panacur® Granules 22.2% (Hoechst). (Rx)  Approved for use in dogs.

Fenbendazole Granules 222 mg/gram (22.2%); Panacur® Granules 22.2% (Hoechst). (OTC)  Approved for use in horses not intended for food.

Fenbendazole Suspension 100 mg/ml (10%); available in both equine and bovine la­beled products;Panacur® Suspension  (Hoechst). (Rx)  Approved for use in horses (not intended for food) and cattle  Slaughter withdrawal=8 days (cattle). Safe-Guard® Suspension (Hoechst) (OTC)  Approved for use in beef and dairy cattle. Slaughter withdrawal = 8 days

Fenbendazole Paste 100 mg/gram (10%); available in both equine and bovine labeled products and sizes.Panacur® Paste  (Hoechst). (OTC)  Approved for use in horses (not intended for food) and cattle. Slaughter withdrawal=8 days (cattle). Safe Guard Paste® (Hoechst) (OTC) Approved for use in horses not intended for food and cattle. Slaughter withdrawal = 8 days; no milk withdrawal time.

Fenbendazole Medicated Block 750 mg/lb.; 25 lb. block; Safe-Guard Sweetlix® (Hoechst); (OTC)  Approved for use in beef cattle. Slaughter withdrawal= 16 days.

Fenbendazole Type B Medicated Feed

Safe-Guard EZ Scoop Swine Dewormer® (Hoechst) (OTC).  1.8% Fenbendazole No slaughter withdrawal time required

Safe-Guard 0.96% Scoop Dewormer® (Hoechst) (OTC) Approved for use in cattle. No milk withdrawal time; slaughter withdrawal time=13 days

Fenbendazole Type C Medicated Feed

Safe-Guard Free-choice Cattle Dewormer® (Hoechst) (OTC). 0.50% Fenbendazole (2.27 g/lb) Approved for use in beef and dairy cattle.  No milk withdrawal time.

Safe-Guard 35% Salt Free-choice Cattle Dewormer® (Hoechst) (OTC) 1.9 g/lb Fenbendazole. Approved for use in dairy and beef cattle. Slaughter withdrawal time=13 days;  no milk withdrawal time.

Fenbendazole Pellets

Safe-Guard 0.5% Cattle Top Dress® (Hoechst) (OTC)  Slaughter withdrawal time=13 days; no milk withdrawal period

Safe-Guard 1.96% Scoop Dewormer Mini Pellets® (Hoechst) (OTC)  Approved for use in beef and dairy cattle. No milk withdrawal time; slaughter withdrawal time=13 days

Fenbendazole Premix 20%  Type A (200 mg/gram)

Safe-Guard Premix® (Hoechst). (OTC)  Approved for use in swine. dairy and beef cattle, zoo & wildlife animals.  Slaughter withdrawal for cattle = 13 days; no milk withdrawal time. Slaughter withdrawal for swine=none. Wildlife animal slaughter (hunting) withdrawal = 14 days.

Human-Approved Products:  None

I hope this is of value to anyone finding this link and at least gets you something to get underway with being an advocate for your self, your pets, your livestock, your family or friends and other loved ones and quite possibly your 'patients' if you are a professional provider of services to people or animals.  Or a purveyor of goods; I've recently spoken with the hydroponics vendor, inquiring if they're onto ozone, fenbendazole of the fish form (as some grow tilapia in their hydroponics, was my thinking).  "Please come in soon and talk to me more about this".  SO GLAD to see the OPENNESS I am receiving to this information when I present it to a variety of people!   

Please take, ideally, the source links I suggest and see what else is at the websites .... in particular take the one about the elephants, and I say this because the way I was reading between the lines they clearly were setting up an umbrella of information about FENBENDAZOLE in a lot of applications.  Including the ending of "None" for human-approved products. Just making that very clear, I am. WHY would we suggest it for everything else and not for us? Be your own person, decide what YOU are going to put into your body and not, on your body and not. Diet. Medications. Supplements. Herbs. Oils. Energies. Aromatherapies. Information sources. What's on television and in the radio programming. What you pick up from being around others.  The list is long for what we can control about our destiny with our wellness/illness level. This is no exception. It just might be very new, a paradigm change, and require extra attention. Time. Energy. Devotion. Thought. 

YOUsers of Lumigrate know that I suggest YOU put in the study time, decide what YOU think, and then take action based on what you feel, think, etc.  Empowered to connect dots.  Look at the patent trail for all the patents obtained for chemicals similar to fenbendazole and then, so far, not marketed.  Where are they in development? No way for non-insiders to know. But that is on the thread about Steve's Facebook group, images, research, protocol, and PosterGal gets the credit for having found it and made it apparent to me this was something TO PUT ATTENTION ON. Thanks again, Poster Gal, for that and for being a resource to respond when I inquired this week to update this topic thread. 

Live and learn. Learn and live better! ~ Mardy

 You can find this information at the following link ... it is one comment among the many as I was adding on components and grouping up the information being presented in the group lead by Steve Beddingfield so I could then later utilize it in various ways to the benefit of Lumigrate YOUsers.  It makes this more complete -- some of the information will be repetitive with what is above, but there will also be additional pictures and reinforcement.  

Keep in mind the timeline, this comment information, below, was originally produced in March of 2015 and not only do I  understand it more, so does Steve and others who are on this cutting edge --- being increasingly substantiated as mainstream disclosure is made about The Stuff and it's connection to human health without so far (as of mid November) being that direct about it.  (Seek out information at our Search bar using the word disclosure to a topic I have about how things are being disclosed, if that is of interest and benefit to you in your learning.)

www.lumigrate.com/forum/steve-his-images-his-protocol-and-facebook-group-community-and-other-resources-chronic-illness#comment-2814 PET INSTRUCTIONS

©2015 Steve Beddingfield

            From 21 Year Old Bernie The Cat. Strands of "The Stuff", as seen in what comes out from the intestinal tract. From Steve's lab, sample of dog poop, without magnification: 

It was in the group's conversation in late March that people need to check about the type of BIRD they might want to be dosing with fenbendazole, as it's contraindicated in some breeds. So reminding here, as always, to do your homework about all things and contraindictions. 

By April I have encountered a woman I was educating about what's in the water, who 'related' to the information because someone she knows personally and well lives in an area of Florida where there have been cyanobacteria / algae problems for a while now ... and the person's dog had gotten ill, they thought from it just getting on it's feet and fur and then into them the various ways.  I love examples where something that has occurred with a pet or livestock animal then helps a person see the application of the information to their situation -- in this case it was an avid gardener with irrigation water they're 'always in during the summer' and so they were somewhat 'tuned in' about the information I was introducing them to. 

A standard for me as an OT student and ever after at my desk at work whether more recently at home / home office as a consultant on education routes OR as an occupational therapist in the various places I worked over the years is the Merck Manual.  I am such a fan I have a topic in the Lumigrate Bookshelf forum about the Merck manual that's geared for people that's not as professional, which I found at my local Kroger grocery store's book section. 

So it was naturally something I liked seeing PosterGal present in Steve's Images today (April 19, 2015, as I edit this in) the Merck online veterinary resource on algae poisoning.  Here's the link: 

www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/toxicology/algal_poisoning/overview_of_algal_poisoning.html

Not only does this topic, naturally, describe symptoms and treatments for algal poisoning in veterinary medicine applications, it has good information about cyanobacteria and treatment of water.  Here's an excerpt, which is how the topic wraps up/ends: 

 

Water treatment techniques can be highly effective to remove both cyanobacterial cells and cyanotoxins (especially microcystins) with the appropriate technology. Most cyanotoxins remain intracellular, unless the cells are lysed or damaged from age or stress from water conditions or chemical treatment. The one exception is cylindrospermopsin, which is actively secreted from even healthy cells. This makes it possible to remove cells and cyanotoxins (especially microcystins) by coagulation and filtration in a conventional treatment plant.

Treatment of water containing cyanobacterial cells with oxidants such as chlorine or ozone, while killing cells, will result in the release of free cyanotoxin. Therefore, the practice of prechlorination or preozonation is not recommended without a subsequent step to remove dissolved cyanotoxins.

 

 

Microcystins are readily oxidized by a range of oxidants, including ozone and chlorine. Adequate contact time and pH control are needed to achieve optimal removal of these compounds, which is more difficult in the presence of whole cells.

Microcystins, anatoxin-a, cylindrospermopsin, and some saxitoxins are also adsorbed from solution by both granular activated carbon and, less efficiently, by powdered activated carbon. The effectiveness of the process should be determined by monitoring cyanotoxin in the product water.

 

Dogs
Fenbendazole dosage is 2 mils daily of liquid or 2 grams of paste, generally. (if your dog is unusually large or small you can use the same formula used for humans 1ml per 50 lbs) 
Reishi dosage is 1/2 capsule of Aloha Medicinals Gano Ultra daily, 2caps for big dogs.

November 9, 2015 He was saying this for a case of dog that was a small dog: 

Mix fenbendazole liquid for goats (Safeguard brand) with 50 parts of water, spray 4 times each day, give dog 3mls daily internally for 3 weeks and your dog will be growing new hair and feeling much better.  After three weeks stop the daily internal dosing and give every three days, spray coat twice daily until sheen has returned to dog's coat, this works.

I've fixed hundreds if not thousands of dogs, plus I now advise vets on this, a lot of vets have taken this treatment protocol and passed it on to other vets.  Fenben is now the number one choice of vets nationwide.

Cats
Fenbendazole dosage is 1/2 ml daily of liquid only. 
Reishi dosage is 1/2 cap daily (same brand mentioned above).

November 9, 2015 Steve was saying this about a cat: 

Give cats 2 Mls of liquid fenbendazole daily for 2 weeks, then once a week. Mix fenben 50 to 1 in a spray bottle, spray coat twice each day.

Dogs get the same treatment. This works great.

Treat animals 4-7 days per week keeping a close eye on changes in behavior or signs of recovery/healing. Take any breaks you think necessary.

MARDY's NOTE: I've been relating this information as a running history of things because I want people to see how the information changes as time changes / goes on.  This, as I say many places, is not the usual source of information most people turn to, but this is a source that was having his share of successes (and problems) and so I have felt that Lumigrate's YOU concept of YOU doing the work and figuring out what YOU need to do is going to allow a good foundation for people to go on and consider what Steve Beddingfield presents. 

Maintenance doses are the same amount formulated for your pet only less often, most do once or twice weekly to keep pets healthy. Some even go to once a month. Use your discretion.

Spray with fenbendazole liquid diluted down to a 50 to one ratio (using safe water, naturally), is what Steve also recommends; I/Mardy feel that it's going to work better to spray on a cloth or disposable cloth-like paper-type towel and wipe the animal that wouldn't appreciate a spraying. 

Treating pets as we treat ourselves ensures we are eliminating sources of reinfection for both parties. wink emoticon

*Only use fenbendazole on pets, other types can be harmful.

We will be making a permanent file once I fill in more details. I wanted to get this out since we are getting an unusually high amount of questions on pets. There are other members using reishi products that they love. I can't guarantee that they have been tested for purity but if any of you feel confident to share what you are using, post below and we will add some to the file. smile emoticon

Any experiences treating animals with this protocol are encouraged here as well.

In the spring there was an exodus of admins from Steve's group, some stayed as members, others did not. The new admin who is now Steve's 'right hand woman' had this to say on August 6, 2016: 

In May, someone in the group added this: "Both dogs treated with fenben at 1 ml per 5#'s of a 10% paste mixed in a bit of goat yogurt. They gobbled up the mixture with no hesitation. It really is not bad tasting stuff.  This is from a veterinarian's website, for dosing."

From mid March, Steve had said this: Vet treatments are now centered around fenben. My friend's vet talked to me about my procedures being utilized for the tmt of algae infestation, he agreed with my beliefs about HABs killing and torturing animals, mostly pets. Wild animals are wandering about acting weird, going to the highways too often.

Parvovirus is to be Vxd for, rabies too. (vaccinated abbreviation); you can't play with these two killers.

Heart worms can be prevented by fenben if started early on in a pet's life. If pet has heartworms at adult stage of worms, go with vet procedures.

Some collies and a couple of other breeds cannot tolerate Ivermectin -- instant death, check breed interactions first. Parvo is my worst fear for my (dogs). I'll re-treat mine today, as he got into a fight with a huge ground hog, looked bad afterwards, the GH got his licks in.

Mardy's Note: Consider approaching your veterinarian about the information you're learning about from Steve's Images/ Protocol and involve them if you feel that would be of benefit to you and your veterinarian (and your pet you're the guardian for). Discussing something with a variety of people will help process the information.  As with anything, consider printing something to take or if you're emailing with them, email a link.

In order to provide YOUsers with more supportive information, here's a link I found in Searching 'cyanobacteria, dogs'.  I knew there were cases in California recently where a lake was posted forewarning people about not getting in the water but the owners didn't keep their pets from getting in.  In this topic at the following link, Annabelle was a dog that jumped from a boat near the shoreline, wanting to swim in and thankfully had a veterinarian who pieced together what to do to turn the symptoms around when in liver failure shortly thereafter.

www.the-scientist.com/ 

The closing of the article: "“We are increasingly aware that many dogs and other pets are exposed to these toxins every year, and that the blooms are likely increasing,” says Kudela. And new findings on the chronic impacts of cyanotoxin poisoning have him worried. “We know that even low-level exposure results in decreased reproduction in fish, and probably promotes cancer in mammals, such as dogs and humans.”"

Interjecting this on May 27, 2015 and hot off the press from what's being conversed about in Steve's group today.  A woman who experiences a lot of stinging sensations, all over her body, and Steve had a conversation volley that I thought was very insightful AND he posted a picture.

Steve: GSB spores do the biting and stinging, they're the tiny dark particles we see everywhere.Kitty.Kitty!

Woman: Reports she lives in a tiny house, and the cats don't stay in her room, one roams the house where it sleeps and the other sleeps in one spot. She asks if what she's seeing and experiencing is 'coming from' the cats. She had the cats before she had 'drug damage' (many in the group talk about 'floxing' but I'm not certain what this particular woman's patented medication history is), and had no issues such as this very annoying symptom. She says they are both getting fenben and reishi. She said "I still dont know anyone in any Morgellon's site that their entire body, every pore, stings like it is the entire skin all at once.. it is insane. ..... I feel like blowin out my brains. at this point. I am worn out.

She reports that she just had gone and cleaned under the bed she sleeps in, which has hardwood floors. She'd done the same thing yesterday and already there were tons of red and blue fibers again, and sparkles. "everything that is coming out of my skin..... cleaning, washing (seems) useless.  She relates that she went to another part of the house where she doesn't live and took a sample under the bed and only found a few red and blue fibers "but NOTHING like under my bed, which I clean daily."

Steve: Treat them, never allow on your bed or anything clothwise which contacts your body. You and cats didn't make each other sick, you're just keeping each other sick. Wipe down cat fur with a damp cloth which contains some fenben on the cloth. Do this for your cats twice each day. I know many sufferers who are experiencing this biting sting.

I also have many pics of the sulphur bacteria spores which cause this."

In June, someone asked him if bartonella was causing their three year long, incessant, electrical stinging-feeling all over the body.  Steve's answer: "GSB is the issue, Bart was picked by GSB.  All came with your cat. Keep cat wiped down with a wet cloth containing fenben."

Parasitipedia dot net has nice information and naturally their requisite caution placed prominently to dissuade humans from using veterinary products.  This is one of the better overviews I've seen about this type of medication, however. I'll bring you and excerpt, below, and naturally here's the LINK TO TAKE and go to the source as they're a good resource for studying what YOU think about this 'stuff'. 

parasitipedia.net/index.php       AND what you'll find just for 'starters' if you take the link:

parasitipedia.net/index.php  (same link as above, to encourage taking it).  

So if you're interested, take the links I've set up.  I've come in and edited in NEW information because of the closure of Steve's Images in midApril 2015 due to the explosive growth they had and needing to get a group of people effective in their knowledge and application of the information and create other groups they can facilitate in order to create 'the ripple effect'.

Editing AGAIN mid July, the group's leadership 'split' or were no longer admins and mostly do not comment now but remain to stay up on what new might be presented there. He then started letting people back into the group and it is at this time approaching 2,000 members. A few experienced ones post things I transfer to this overall thread. One recently was from a woman with Morgellons and a dog, who said her dog took only a few servings of the fenbendazole to heal up, they'd gotten the outward skin symptoms after the owner/human guardian did. She said she put it on bread that was considered a desirable treat by the dog. I believe she was using the goat / sheep version not the dog version; there is a dog/ canine version. 

Naturally, seek out advisors who are qualified to help you.  Remember that the run of the mill medical professionals in human and veterinary medicine today are very brainwashed, brain dead, or otherwise simply BEHIND where YOU might be with what YOU know and can figure out. Use your senses, think like a dog and about how dogs and cats and horses and others we can learn from show us the way with their intutiveness sometimes. But do get advise from those YOU feel are the right fit for YOU at this point in time. Unfortunately, Steve's group does not have the dimensionality of advisors it used to have, it's 'Steve's classroom' and he's the teacher and not a lot of people feel like commenting like in the past. Fortunately I grabbed those highlights and transferred them HERE for YOU on this very long thread. 

Thanks again to all in the group who have contributed to creating and facilitating the information there, and their desire to have people finding it and being 'grate' with my having these topics at Lumigrate. 

Live and learn. Learn and live better! ~ Mardy